Showing posts with label bag. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bag. Show all posts

Sunday, April 5, 2020

Sakura Market Bag




Disclaimer: This pattern and photographs are the property of K.A.M.E. Crochet by Krisztina Anna Matejcsok-Edomer and should be used for personal and non-commercial use. You may not alter or sell this pattern in any way. You may sell finished products, but please credit K.A.M.E. Crochet if you can. Thank you!
K.A.M.E. Crochet Designs 2019 by Krisztina Anna Matejcsok - Edomer All rights reserved


Difficulty: Easy/Intermediate
Gauge: 5 half double crochets = approx. 1 inch
Size: The bottom part is 20 cm diameter, the bag is approx. 32 cm tall without the straps, but stretches when in use.

Materials needed:
4 mm (G) size Hook
approx. 85-90 grams of Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (I used Lime Green shade)
Yarn needle for weaving in ends
Scissors
Stitch markers if needed

Stitches used and Abbreviations:
MR = magic ring
CH = chain
SC = single crochet
SK = skip
SP = space
ST/STS= stitch/ stitches
SLST = slip stitch
HDC = half double crochet
DC = double crochet
FPHDC = front post half double crochet
FPDC = front post double crochet
FPSC = front post single crochet
*-* =repeat pattern between these symbols

Special Stitches:

Front post single crochet:
Insert your hook from the front around the post of given stitch, from right to left, yarn over and finish single crochet as usual.
K.A.M.E. Crochet Designs 2019 by Krisztina Anna Matejcsok - Edomer All rights reserved


Front post half double crochet:
Yarn over, insert your hook from the front around the post of given stitch, from right to left, yarn over and finish your half double crochet as usual.
Front post double crochet:
Yarn over, insert your hook from the front around the post of given stitch, from right to left, yarn over and finish your double crochet as usual.

Additional notes:
US terms used throughout
Each round starts with a Chain 1, 2 or 3. These are not counted as a stitch unless instructed otherwise

To start: MR

Round 1: CH 3, DC 12 into the ring, join with a SLST to first DC (not CH 3)  (12 DC)

Round 2: CH 2, 1 DC in same ST, FPDC around the CH 3 from previous round AND same ST you just put a DC into, *1DC in next ST, FPDC around the same ST* repeat *to* to end, join with a SLST to first DC  (12 FPDC, 12 DC)

Round 3: CH 2, 1 DC in same ST, 1 DC in next ST (that’s the first FPDC from previous round), FPDC around the same ST you just put a DC into, *1 DC in next 2 STS (note: the 2nd ST is always the FPDC), FPDC around FPDC* repeat *to* to end join with a SLST to first DC  (12 FPDC, 24 DC)

Round 4: SLST to first FPDC from prevoius round, CH 1, SC in same ST, SK 2 STS (those are the 2 DC from prev. round) 7 DC in next FPDC, *SK 2 STS, SC in next FPDC , SK 2 STS, 7 DC in next FPDC* repeat *to* to end, join with a SLST to first SC  (6 SC, 6  Shells)

Round 5: CH 7 (counts as DC+CH 4) *skip 3 DC, 1 SC in 4th DC of shell, CH 4, skip 3 DC, 1 DC in SC, CH 4, skip 3 DC* repeat *to* to end join with a SLST to the 3rd CH of CH 7  (6 DC, 6 SC, 12 CH 4 SP)

Round 6: CH 1, 1 SC in same ST, 4 SC in CH 4 SP, 1 SC in SC, 4 SC in CH 4 SP,* 1 SC in DC, 4 SC in CH 4 SP, 1 SC in SC, 4 SC in CH 4 SP* repeat *to* to end join with a SLST to first SC  (60 SC)

Round 7: CH 2, 2 DC in same ST, 1 DC in next 4 STS, *2 DC in next ST, 1 DC in next 4 STS* repeat *to* to end, join with a SLSTto first DC  (72 DC)

Round 8: CH 5 (counts as DC+CH 2), SK 1 ST, *1 DC in next ST, CH 2, SK 1 ST* repeat *to* to end, join with a SLST to 3rd CH of CH 5  (36 DC, 36 CH 2 SP)

Round 9: CH 1, 1 SC in same ST, SK next CH 2 SP, 5 DC in next DC, SK next CH 2 SP, *SC in next DC, SK next CH 2 SP, 5 DC in next DC, SK next CH 2 SP* repeat *to* to end, join with a SLST to first SC  (18 Shells, 18 SC) 

Round 10:
CH 2, 1 FPDC around first SC from previous round, CH 3, SK 2 DC, 1 SC in 3rd DC of shell, CH 3, SK 2 DC *1 FPDC around SC from previous round, CH 3, SK 2 DC, 1 SC in 3rd DC of shell, CH 3, SK 2 DC* repeat *to* to end, join with a SLST to first FPDC  (18 FPDC, 18 SC, 36 CH 3 SP)

Round 11: CH 2, 1 FPHDC around FPDC and CH 2 from previous round, 3 SC in CH 3 SP, 1 SC in SC, 3 SC in CH 3 SP, *1 FPHDC around FPDC, 3 SC in CH 3 SP, 1 SC in SC, 3 SC in CH 3 SP* repeat *to* to end, join with a SLST to first FPHDC  (18 FPHDC, 126 SC)

Round 12: CH 1, 1 FPSC around CH 2 and FPHDC from previous round, 1 SC in next 7 STS, * 1FPSC in next ST, 1 SC in next 7 STS* repeat *to* to end, join with a SLST to first FPSC  (18 FPSC, 126 SC) 

Round 13:
CH 1, 1 SC in same ST, CH 4, SK 3 STS, 1 SC in next ST,* CH 4, SK 3 STS, 1 SC in next ST (note: this stitch is a FPSC from previous round), CH 4, SK 3, 1 SC in next ST* repeat *to*until you do the last SC, then just CH 1 and 1 DC in first SC  (35 CH 4 SP and 1 CH 1+1 DC SP)

Round 14: CH 1, 1 SC in this same space,* CH 5, 1 SC in next CH 4 SP* repeat *to* until you do the last SC, then just CH 2 and 1 DC in first SC  (35 CH 5 SP and 1 CH 2+1 DC SP)

Round 15: CH 1, 1 SC in this same space,* CH 6, 1 SC in next CH 5 SP* repeat *to* until you do the last SC, then just CH 3 and 1 DC in first SC  (35 CH 6 SP and 1 CH 3 +1 DC SP)

Round 16-24: Repeat Round 15

Round 25-27: Repeat Round 14

Round 28-30: CH 1, 1 SC in this same space,* CH 4, 1 SC in next CH 5 SP* repeat *to* until you do the last SC, then just CH 1, 1 DC in first SC  (35 CH 4 SP and 1 CH 1+1 DC SP)

Round 31: CH 1, 1 SC in this same space,* CH 3, 1 SC in next CH 4 SP* repeat *to* until you do the last SC, then just CH 1, 1 HDC in first SC  (35 CH 3 SP and 1 CH 1+1 HDC SP)

Round 32: CH 1, 2 SC in same CH 3 SP, 1 SC in next SC, * 2 SC in next CH 3 SP, 1 SC in SC, 3 SC in next CH 3 SP, 1 SC in SC* repeat *to* to end, 1 SC in last SP (there are 2 SC in that SP you made when started this round) join with a SLST to first SC  (126 SC)

Round 33: Ch 1, 1 HDC in same ST, 1 HDC in each ST to end, join with a SLST to first HDC  (126 HDC)

Round 34: Ch 1, 1 SC in same ST, 1 SC in each ST to end, join with a SLST to first SC  (126 SC)

Round 35: CH 1, 1 SC in same ST, 1 SC in next 32 STS, CH 75, SK 31 STS, 1 SC in next 32 STS, CH 75, SK 31 STS, SLST to first SC  (64 SC, 150 CH)

Round 36: CH 1, 1 SC in same ST, 1 SC in next 32 STS, 1 SC in next 75 CH, 1 SC in next 32 STS, 1 SC in next 75 CH, join with a SLST to first SC  (214 SC)

Round 37 & 38: CH 1, 1 SC in same ST, 1 SC in each ST to end, join with a SLST to first SC  (214 SC)

Fasten off, weave in all ends.



Thank you for choosing this pattern for your project! When you make it, I’d like to see it! Remember to tag me – @k.a.m.e_crochet on Instagram
If you have any questions about the pattern, please contact me at kamecrochet@gmail.com or
Ravelry:   https://www.ravelry.com/people/Mytia89
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/KAMECrochet
Instagram:  https://www.instagram.com/k.a.m.e_crochet Happy Crocheting

Saturday, February 29, 2020

Crochet Granny Hexagon Handbag




Crochet 10 African flower motifs using this pattern... 

https://www.kredide.com/en/beautiful-granny-square-great-for-a-blanket-grannysquares-crochet-hake/

Stitch together using invisible seam.
Add an extra round of dc for adult size bag.
Handles are 55 stitches.


Saturday, February 9, 2019

Ombré Crochet String Market Bag



Main Colour - Lincraft "Illusion Cakes" (one ball makes 2 bags)
Contrast Colour - Lincraft "Cotton" 8 ply
3.5 mm, & 4 mm crochet hooks


Begin with main colour and 3.5 mm crochet hook.

Base

Round 1  Make a magic circle and sc 12 into the circle, join 
Round 2  3 ch (count as 1st dc) 1 dc, 2 dc into each st, join (24 st)
Round 3  3 ch (count as 1st dc) 2 dc in next stitch, (1 dc, 2 dc into next st) repeat to end of round, join (36 st)
Round 4  3 ch (count as 1st dc) 1 dc, 2 dc in next stitch, (1 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc into next st) repeat to end of round, join (48 st)
Round 5  3 ch (count as 1st dc) 1 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc in next stitch, (1 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc into next st) repeat to end of round, join (60 st)

Bag

Round 6  (1 sc, ch 3, skip 1 dc) repeat around (30 ch 3 sp)
Round 7  (1 sc, ch 3 in each ch 3 sp) repeat around (30 ch 3 sp)
Round 8  (1 sc, ch 3) twice in each ch 3 sp (60 ch 3 sp)
Round 9 & 10  Repeat round 7 (60 ch 3 sp)
Round 11  (1 sc, ch 4 in each ch 3 sp) repeat around (60 ch 4 sp)
Round 12  (1 sc, ch 4 in each ch 4 sp) repeat around (60 ch 4 sp)
Repeat round 12 until 4 gradients of the illusions ball have been used.


Handles

Change to contrast colour and 4 mm crochet hook.


Round 1  2 sc in each chain space, join (120 st)
Round 2 & 3  sc in each st around, join (120 st)
Round 4  ch 80, skip 30 st, sc in next 30 sc, ch 80, skip 30 st, sc in next 30 sc (do not join)
Round 5 - 7 sc in each st around (220 st)
Finish with a slip stitch and weave in ends.





Friday, January 25, 2019

Vintage Market Tote



This is not my pattern, I found it here:- 


Why have I copied someone else's pattern to my blog?

I began coping them here when I discovered that some of my favourite patterns had disappeared from the web or the links didn't work... 😢
But I will always credit the original owner and display the link.


Chain 28

Round 1: 3Dc In 3rd chain from hook and one in each chain across until 1 chain remains. 6Dc in the last chain. Dc in each chain across the back side of the chain making 3Dc in the last chain. Join with a SS to the first Dc made. (60)

Round 2: Chain 2. 2Dc in the next 3 stitches. Dc in the next 24 stitches. 2Dc in the next 6 stitches. Dc in the next 24 stitches. 2Dc in the last 3 stitches. Join with a SS to the first Dc made. (72)

Round 3: Chain 2. Repeat (2Dc. Dc.) 3x’s. Dc in the next 24 stitches. Repeat (2Dc. Dc.) 6x’s. Dc in the next 24 stitches. Repeat (2Dc. Dc.) 3x’s. Join with a SS to the first Dc made. (84)

Round 4: Chain 2. Dc in the BLO around. Join with a SS to the first Dc made. (84)

Round 5 – 6: Chain 2. Dc in each stitch around. Join with a SS to the first Dc made. (84)

Round 7: Chain 1. *Sc in the next 5 stitches. Chain 2. Skip the next 2 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a SS to the first Sc made.

Round 8: SS into the next stitch. Chain 1. *Sc  in the next 3 stitches. Chain 1. V-stitch in the chain 2 space. Chain 1. Skip the next Sc.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a SS to the first Sc.

Round 9: SS into the next stitch. Chain 1. *Sc. Chain 1. 5Dc in the next V-stitch. Chain 1. Skip the chain space and the next sc.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a  SS to the first Sc made.

Round 10: SS in to the chain 1 space and into the next dc. Chain 1. *Sc across the next 5 stitches. Chain 2. Skip the 3 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a SS to the first Sc made.

Round 11: SS into the next Sc. Chain 1. *Sc in the next 3 stitches. Chain 1. V-stitch into the next Chain 2 Space. Chain 1. Skip the next Sc.* repeat from * to * around. Join with a SS to the first Sc made.

Round 12 – 20: Repeat round 9 – 11.

Round 21: Repeat round 9.

Round 22: Repeat round 10.

Round 23: Chain 1. Sc in each stitch and chain stitch around. (84)

Round 24 – 27: Chain 1. Sc in each stitch around. Join with a SS to the first Sc made. (84)

Round 28: Chain 1. Sc in the first stitch. Chain 30. Skip the next 13 stitches. Sc in the next 29 stitches. Chain 30. Skip the next 13 stitches. Sc in the next 28 stitches.  Join with a SS to the first Sc made.

Round 29 – 30: Chain 1. Sc in each stitch around. Join with a SS to the first Sc made.

Round 31: Chain 1. Skip the first stitch. Sc in the next 30 stitches. SS in the next 29 stitches. Sc in the next 30 stitches. SS into the next 28 stitches.

Finish off. Weave in ends.


Here are some I've made. For finer yarn chain more in multiples of 7.

Made from Lincraft Cakes 
Made from Lincraft Spiral and Lincraft Cotton handles




Crochet String Shopping Bag




Lincraft "Summer Cakes" (main colour)
Lincraft "Cotton" (contrast colour)
3.5 mm, 4mm & 4.5mm crochet hooks

Begin with contrast colour and 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1 - Make a magic circle and sc 12 into the circle, join 
Round 2 - 3 ch (count as 1st dc) 1 dc, 2 dc into each st, join (24 st)
Round 3 - 3 ch (count as 1st dc) 2 dc in next stitch, (1 dc, 2 dc into next st) repeat to end of round, join (36 st)
Round 4 - 3 ch (count as 1st dc) 1 dc, 2 dc in next stitch, (1 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc into next st) repeat to end of round, join (48 st)
Round 5 - 3 ch (count as 1st dc) 1 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc in next stitch, (1 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc into next st) repeat to end of round, join (60 st)

Change to main colour and 4.5 mm hook

Round 6 - 4 ch, 1dc 1ch into each dc, join (120 st)
Rounds 7 to 24 - Repeat round 6



For handles change to contrast colour and 3.5 mm hook

Round 25 - sc in every stitch and space
Round 26 - dc in every stitch
Round 27 - (sc into next 30 dc, ch50, skip 30 sts) repeat once
Round 28 - dc in every stitch
Round 29 - sc in every stitch
Finish off with slip stitch around top and inside of handles and cast in ends.



Lacy V Market Bag

This is not my pattern, I found it here:- 


Why have I copied someone else's pattern to my blog?

I began coping them here when I discovered that some of my favourite patterns had disappeared from the web or the links didn't work... 😢
But I will always credit the original owner and display the link.


Bag

CH 50  

Rnd 1: 1 sc in second ch from hook; work 1 sc in next 47 ch; work 5 sc in last ch; turn corner; working in opposite side of ch, work 1 sc in next 47 sts; work 4 sc in same ch as first sc of this rnd; slip st into first sc to join.  104 sc around.  Do NOT turn.  

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, work 1 sc in next 48 sc; work, in last sc of row; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc]; sc in next st;  work 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc (2nd corner); work 1 sc in next 49 sc, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in next sc (last stitch in row); 1 sc in next st; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next sc (last corner), slip st into first sc of rnd to join 

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, work 1 sc across to ch 2 space; work; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc]; sc in next 3 sc;  work 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc (2nd corner); work 1 sc across to ch 2 space, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in ch 2 space; 1 sc in next 3 sc; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in next ch2 sp, sc in next sc, slip st into first sc of rnd to join 

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, work 1 sc across to ch 2 space; work; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc]; sc in next 5 sc;  work 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc (2nd corner); work 1 sc across to ch 2 sp, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in ch 2 space; 1 sc in next 5 sc; [1 sc 2 ch, 1 sc] in next ch 2 sp, sc in next 2 sc, slip st into first sc of rnd to join 

Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, work 1 sc across to ch 2 space; work; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc]; sc in next 7 sc;  work 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc (2nd corner); work 1 sc across to ch 2 space, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in ch 2 space; 1 sc in next 7 sc; [1 sc 2 ch, 1 sc] in next ch 2 sp, sc in next 3 sc, slip st into first sc of rnd to join 

Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, work 1 sc across to ch 2 sp; work; [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc]; sc in next 9 sc;  work 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc (2nd corner); work 1 sc across to ch 2 space, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in ch 2 space; 1 sc in next 9 sc; [1 sc 2 ch, 1 sc] in next ch 2, sc in next 4 sc, slip st into first sc of rnd to join 

Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc 1 in the same sc as slip st, work 1 sc across to ch 2 space; work [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc]; sc in next 11 sc;  work 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc (2nd corner); work 1 sc across to ch 2 space, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in ch 2 space; 1 sc in next 11 sc; {1 sc 2 ch, 1 sc} in next ch 2 sp, sc in next 5 sc, slip st into first sc of rnd to join, sl st to end off. 

Rnd 8: Slip stitch in any ch 2 corner, 3 sc in ch 2 corner,  sc in each sc around making 3 sc in each ch 2 corner, sl st to join.  

Rnds 9-14:  sc in same st as sl st and in each sc around, sl st to join.  

Rnd 15:  Ch 4 (counts as beginning v-stitch), dc in same st, (1st v-stitch made) * skip next 2 sc, [dc, ch 1, dc; v-stitch] in next sc; repeat from * across, sl st in to 3rd stitch of ch.  Total 56 v-stiches.  

Rnd 16: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in first ch 1 sp, 3 dc in each ch sp across. Sl st to join 168 sts  

Rnd 17: Ch 1, sc in first 2 dc * ch 3, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc; repeat from * across to last st, sl st in top of beginning ch,to join. 

Rnd 18: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 3, [sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 3] across, skip next sc, sc in last sc: sl st to join. 56 ch 3 sps.  

Rnd 19: Ch 4, dc in first ch-3 sp, [dc, ch 1, dc; v-stitch] in each ch-3 sp. across, sl st. to join.   

Rnds 20-43: Repeat Rows 16-19 ; 6 times.  

Rnd 44: ch 1, 2 sc in the first ch 1 sp, 3 sc in each ch-sp across, sl st. to join.  

Rnds 45-50: sc in each sc around, sl st to join, sl st to end at end of Rnd 50. 

Straps (make 2), Hook size E.  

Chain 8 leaving a long tail to attach to bag,

Row 1, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of remaining 6 sc., turn.  

Rows 2-126, ch 1 sc in each of 7 sc.  Do not fasten off, sc in each stitch around outsides of strap, making [sc, 1 ch, sc] in each corner.    Fasten off leaving long tail to attach to bag.

Position straps 3-1/2"  from outside edge of bag.   Attach using tails.   (I sewed with regular sewing thread first and then used tails to finish).

My version of the bag with different handles and beginning with 40 ch instead of 50... 



Rustic Market Bag with Mandala Base - With My Variation



This is not my pattern, I found it here:- 


Why have I copied someone else's pattern to my blog?

I began coping them here when I discovered that some of my favourite patterns had disappeared from the web or the links didn't work... 😢
But I will always credit the original owner and display the link.

For this pattern I didn't like the joins for each round so I changed those and did them the way I always do.
Also the pattern didn't make sense to me after round 8 and would not have looked like the picture so where the **s are I've changed that too.



You need:
 Yarn; Drops Belle, approx 80 g / 192 m (Yarn weight: 8ply / DK / worsted, 20-22 stitches)
♥ Hook, 4 mm
 Scissors
 Needle

Abbreviations, US terms
rnd = round                           
ss = slip stitch
ch = chain                             
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet  
tr = treble        
ch-sp = chain space   
blsc = back loop single crochet (crochet trough back loop only)  
dc2tog = double crochet 2 together
[example]x3 = Work the instructions inside the [-] as many times as the number after the x.

Bag
If a round starts  with a dc, the first dc is replaced by ch3 or a Faux double crochet. Finish with 1 ss in 3rd ch, if you replaced the 1st dc with ch3
Work a magic ring (or ch4, ss in 1st ch)
1.  Ch2, 1 dc in the ring = 1 dc2tog *ch1, dc2tog in the ring*, repeat from*-* four more times, finish with a sc in 1st dc = 1 ch1-sp, (6 dc2tog)
2.  2 dc in the last ch1-sp (sc), [(2 dc, ch1, 2 dc) in next ch-sp]X5, finish with 2 dc in the last ch1-sp (sc), 1 sc in 1st dc = 1 ch1-sp, (24 dc + 6 ch)
3.  4 dc in the last ch1-sp 2, [7 dc in next ch-sp]x5, 3 dc in the last ch1-sp, finish with a ss in 1st dc, (6 petals)
4.  Ch1 = 1 sc, ch3, 1 dc in between the last dc in a ch-sp and the first dc in the next ch-sp on rnd 2, ch3, *1 sc i the 4th dc in next petal, ch3, 1 dc in between the last dc in a ch-sp and the first dc in the next ch-sp on rnd 2, ch3* repeat from *-* 4 more times, finish with 1 ss in 1st ch, (12 ch3-sp)
5.  2dc in 1st sc (ch1), 3 dc in next ch3-sp, 2 dc in next dc, 3 dc in next ch3-sp, *2 dc in next sc, 3 dc in next ch3-sp, 2 dc in next dc, 3 dc in next ch-sp*, repeat from *-* around, finish with 1 ss in 1st dc. (60 dc)
6.  1 dc in 1st dc, *ch2, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* around, finish with ch2, skip 1 dc, 1 ss in 1st dc, (30 dc + 30 ch2-sp)
7.  1 dc in 1st dc, 2 dc in next ch-sp, *1dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-sp*, repeat from *-* around, finish with 1 ss in 1st dc, (90 dc)

**See below for another version... 
8.  Ch1 = 1 sc, *ch4, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc*, repeat from *-* around, but the last time you work ch1, 1 dc in 1st sc (ch1) = 1 ch4-sp, (30 ch4-sp)
9.  Work 1 sc in the last ch4-sp, *ch5, 1 sc in next ch4-sp*, repeat from *-* around, but the last time you work ch2, 1 dc in 1st sc = 1 ch5-sp, (30 ch5-sp)
10.  Work 1 sc in the last ch5-sp, *ch6, 1 sc in next ch5-sp*, repeat from *-* around, but the last time you work ch2, 1 tr in 1st sc = 1 ch6-sp, (30 ch6-sp)
11.  Work 1 sc in the last ch6-sp, *ch6, 1 sc in next ch6-sp*, repeat from *-* around, but the last time you work ch2, 1 tr in 1st sc = 1 ch6-sp, (30 ch6-sp)
12. –  30.   Work as round 11.
31.  Work 1 sc in the last ch6-sp, *ch3, 1 sc in next ch6-sp*, repeat from *-* around, finish with ch3, 1 ss in 1st sc, (30 ch3-sp)
32.  Ch1 = 1 sc, 3 sc in next ch3-sp, *1 sc in next sc, 3 sc in next ch3-sp*, repeat from *-* around, finish with 1 ss in 1st sc (ch1), (120 sc)
33.  Ch1 = 1 sc, 1 blsc in each of the next 29 sc, 1 sc in next sc, ch75, skip 28 sc, 1 sc in next sc, 1 blsc in each of the next 30 sc, 1 sc in next sc, ch 75, skip 28 sc, 1 sc in next sc, finish with 1 ss in 1st sc (ch1), (64 sc + 150 ch)
34.  Ch1 = 1 sc, 1 blsc in each of the next 30 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 75 ch, 1 blsc in each of the next 32 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 75 ch, 1 blsc in next sc, finish with 1 ss in 1st sc (ch1), (214 sc)
35.  Ch1 = 1 sc, 1 blsc in each sc around, finish with 1 ss in 1st sc (ch1) (214 sc)

**
8.  1 sc, *ch3, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc*, repeat from *-* around (45 ch3 sp)

9. - 10.  *1 sc, ch3, in each ch sp*, repeat from *-*  



11.  *1 sc, ch4 in each ch sp*, repeat from *-* 

Repeat round 11 until there are 30 rounds of chain loops.


Handles

1.  2 sc in each chain space, join (90 st)

2. & 3.  sc in each st around, join 

4.  ch 50 to 80 (depending on the length of handle preferable), skip 22 st, sc in next 23 sc, ch 80, skip 22 st, sc in next 23 sc

5. - 7. sc in each st around


Finish with a slip stitch and weave in ends.


Variation when using a cotton cake (will make 4 bags)

Repeat round 11 until there are 33 rounds of chain loops.
For handles use Rainbow Cotton 8/4



Friday, August 10, 2018

Mini Shopping Bags

I made these tiny bags for the Coles mini shop collectibles. 



8 ply yarn
3.5 mm crochet hook

Round 1 - Make a magic circle and sc 8 into the circle
Round 2 - 3 ch (count as 1st dc) 1 dc, then 2 dc into each sc, join (16 st)
Round 3 - 4 ch, 1dc 1ch into each dc, join (32 st)
Rounds 4 to 6 - Repeat round 3
Round 7 - (8 sc into each dc and space, ch 20, skip 8 stiches and spaces, join) x 2
Finish off and cast in ends

Monday, November 30, 2015

Fat Quarter Tote Tutorial (It's totes reversible!)



For the first time ever, I'm attempting a sewing tutorial.
I'm making a million of these at the moment for teacher gifts and Christmas gifts for the family.

Sew....here we go...

Hang on for the ride and let me know if I slip up anywhere!


1. Find 2 complimentary fat quarters (pre-cut fabric pieces that you'll find at any good fabric or craft store).



2. Iron both pieces to remove fold lines.



3. I use a squirt of water for stubborn creases.



4. Place one piece over the other and trim off any excess to ensure both are the same size.
 *Yes, I am a leftie, don't be too freaked out!*



5. Keeping both pieces together fold in half so the short edges are together. Cut a 4½ in (11½ cm) strip and a 4 in (10 cm) strip from the folded edge. 



6. Take one of the 4 in (10 cm) strips to make a strap. Press in half lengthwise.



7. Open it up and press one edge to the middle fold-line.



8. Turn it around and do the same with the other edge so you have both edges pressed to the middle line.



9. Fold it all in half again and give another press.



10. Edge stitch the folded edges together.



11. And then edge stitch the other edge of the strap.

(Repeat steps 6 - 11 with the second 4 in (10 cm) strip to make 2 straps.



12. Take one of the large sections and the contrasting 4½ in (11½ cm) strip. Place long edges together.



13. Stitch together using a ¼ in (½ cm) seam.



14. Press open...



making sure the seam is facing the bottom edge.



15. Fold in half with right sides together and make sure the seam you have sewn is matching.



16. Sew the long edge and bottom together with a ¼ in (½ cm) seam.



17. Clip corners.



18. Turn right side to outside and press the seams flat.

(Repeat steps 12 - 18 with the remaining 2 sections of fabric)



19. Take one of the bag pieces, fold it in half lengthwise, and make a small snip halfway along on the top open edge through all 4 layers.



20. Centre the strap ends over the snips taking care not to twist the strap and pin.
Do the same with the second strap on the other side.



21. Machine baste (using your longest stitch length).



22. Turn one of your bag sections inside out and place the other one inside it.
Keeping raw edges together and matching the side seam, pin and machine stitch using a ½ in (1 cm) seam.



23. As you are stitching around the top, use your longest stitch between the handles on one side only.



24. For the section between the handles only, where you used the long stitch, press both sides of the seam back with your iron.



25. Then unpick the long-stitched section with a seam ripper to make an opening and turn both sections right side out through the opening.



26. Push one section back inside the other and edge stitch around the top, stitching the opening closed as you go.



And there you have it...a totes reversible mini tote!



Try to stop at just one...I couldn't!!